In Ronda, we made the rounds of museums, first Museo Lara, owned by a collector of oddities who lives in an apartment above those cultural artifacts on display, obsolete and obsolescent gadgets like telegraph apparatus, gramophones, and typewriters and other interesting collectables like pipes and musical instruments.
More interesting — at least for me — are the rooms dedicated to the Inquisition where you can actually run your hands across the spikes of an iron maiden or check out the crudity of a head crusher or a chastity belt and marvel at other ingenious instruments of torture.
Then there’s a room devoted to the so-called black arts. Here you can see such wonderful specimens like this:
The dioramas are also worth a peek.
Next we visited the Museo del Bandoleros, a unique collection dedicated to those highwaymen who have become the stuff of legend in Andalusia. Some of the more famous ones actually have comic books dedicated to them and comic-book like poetry, some in couplets, others in terza rima.
Our favorite is Juan Jose Mongolla, aka Pasos Largos, who favors the Moore family.
Anyway, these marauders lived in caves along the highway and would swoop down on horsemen and stage coaches divesting their victims of cumbersome gold and jewelry. They also appear to have been popular with the ladies, if several paintings and woodcuts can be trusted that show the bandoleros on horseback serenading women troubadour-style.
They also were on hand to rescue damsels in distress.
These cats aren’t as lucky.
We also visited the Plaza del Toros, the bullring, one of the most revered in Spain, according to our travel guide. Although it only seats 5,000, it’s circumference makes it one of the largest in Spain. Hemingway, of course, was a paying customer here. You can read about his association with the town here.
Still, one of the town’s coolest attractions is the Hotel Enfrente Arte, Spain’s answer to New York’s famous Chelsea Hotel. I failed to mention in my previous post the wonderful breakfast they serve, which like beer and wine, is included in the daily rate. A vast array of culinary delights are available. My favorite was quail eggs and bacon with tomato on toast, brought to your table with a loud ta-da by the gregarious chef.
Our last night in Ronda, we hit another Flamenco show. Although inferior to the performance we caught in Jerez, this one did feature a female dressed to the nines who was very impressive. As she stomped her feat and contorted her body, an occasional bangle would disengage from her costume and fly across the stage.
Here she is the afternoon before the performance with one of her fans.
Like all good things — long-running sitcoms, bottles of Jamesons, happy marriages — our stay in Ronda had to come to its end. On Thursday, we retrieved our rental car and made our way down to Vejer, which I have dubbed the Beirut of Southern Spain. Here, we’re going to visit our first beach, so stay tuned.